Debiprasad Dash, PhD
Xavier Institute of Management, Xavier Square
Bhubaneswar 751013, INDIA
E-mail: dpdash[at]ximb.ac.in
FROM "DOLPHIN HARBOUR" TO "BEAR COUNTRY"
NATIONAL TREKKING EXPEDITION, GOA, 2004
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Debiprasad Dash, PhD Xavier Institute of Management, Xavier Square Bhubaneswar 751013, INDIA E-mail: dpdash[at]ximb.ac.in
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1 January 2005
Since my first trekking experience in December 2002 (that story is available on the Web at http://www.ximb.ac.in/~dpdash/Trek_2002.htm), I have nourished the spirit of adventure within myself. I have found myself adding new activities to my daily routine, connecting with new people from different walks of life, and floating several new initiatives relating to my professional and personal interests. The path I have traversed since then has been a path of self-discovery, albeit a little late in life. I now believe, quite like The Ramblers (http://www.ramblers.org.uk), that it is every person's birth right to wander into the countryside, explore living within the humble abundance of nature, and expand by discovering the experience of thrownness in new surroundings, with new people.
This was the spirit behind my signing up for the Goa trekking event last month. The lure of Goa--the so called "Pearl of the Orient"--was no small attraction by itself (see http://www.goatourism.org/About_Goa/goa_intro.htm). I have now come back from the trek with my body and spirit renewed, with a greater resolve to accord primacy to adventure and comradeship in my life. I hope, this will facilitate my explorations of myself and my surrounding worlds.
Here is a snapshot of the Goa trekking experience, as told by someone who sees a pathway for self-exploration and self-expansion in such outdoor adventure activities.
I was privileged to experience the National Trekking Expedition, Goa, 2004, organised during December 2004 - January 2005, by the Youth Hostels Association of India (YHAI, http://www.yhaindia.org/). I happened to be in the group of trekkers who reported on the very first day of the programme, i.e., 15 Dec 2004, and completed the trek on 22 Dec 2004.
The entire event was coordinated by the State branches of YHAI at Goa and Maharashtra, with the required support from the central office of YHAI at New Delhi. The enormous patronage by the Government of Goa was too obvious to be missed.
There was a typical YHAI structure to the whole event, starting from a well defined schedule for the entire period, copious instructions and recommendations, availability of volunteers to guide at the camp sites, a persistent call for self-discipline, and an unwritten injunction that values austerity, orderliness, and teamwork. At the camp fire every night, the camp leaders do not miss a chance to reiterate some of these values and remind the participants of the importance of recognising hidden talents within oneself while respecting the natural and cultural diversity around. These ideals have probably been shaped over the years and become part of the shared heritage of Youth Hostelling. Whenever possible, camp fires are made in a symbolic way, using either candles, lanterns, or electric light, avoiding the potential harm to nature actual burning of wood might cause. Oh, not to miss an important detail: good trekkers must also have their cup of hot chocolate drink before going to sleep!
Our programme was scheduled over eight days. Each day brought a miscellany of unique experiences, diverse interactions, and triggered plenty of thought, at least in my mind. Here is a day-by-day account of the programme, for readers wishing to know what was actually happening to us during these eight days.
Day 1: Reporting at Base Camp
The base camp had a large circle of tents pitched on the play grounds belonging to the Sports Authority of Goa, at Campal, Panaji--the State capital, located on the banks of the river Mandovi. There was hardly any winter in the air. Temporary public conveniences were set up near the camp site and the changing facilities at the nearby indoor stadium and the swimming pool were also made available to us. The tents were quite spacious; each could accommodate 12 persons. There were also separate smaller tents for family-campers, who were not part of the trekking programme.
Most out-station participants arrived at Madgaon (Margao) by rail and took some local transport to reach the base camp site. Among the 33 who constituted our group, there were business people, corporate executives, bankers, government employees (both serving and retired), educationists, students (of medicine, engineering, art and design, architecture, etc.), a retired military officer, and a Gentleman Cadet who has completed his initial training from the Indian Military Academy. They covered a wide spectrum of ages (roughly 20-65 years), with members coming from several Indian states, namely Bihar, Delhi, Gujarat, Karnataka, Madhya Pradesh, Maharashtra, Manipur, Orissa, Uttar Pradesh, and Uttaranchal. There were eight female participants, three of whom had their spouses in the group. One couple had their two sons in the group too! Many had trekked before, although some were first-timers. This made it an interestingly diverse group to begin with. Later, during the camp fire, the members came out in their true colours, displaying their hidden talents at story-telling, sher-o-shayari, singing, telling jokes, and playing musical instruments (harmonica and flute).
Day 2: Acclimatisation/Orientation
The day began with bed tea at 5 a.m., followed by physical training, camp cleaning, and breakfast. Then came the exciting acclimatisation walk along the Miramar beach, adjoining the base camp site. The walk ended with a free-ride on water scooters at the Dona Paula beach resort followed by a bus-ride back to the base camp. It was time to pack the essentials we needed to carry in our haversacks (also known as rucksack, knapsack, or backpack) and deposit the rest of our belongings for safe keeping during the programme.
The key event in the afternoon was the detailed route instructions, given to us by Mr M. Joshi, the Goa State Chairman of YHAI. He gave us some idea of Goa's cultural history followed by a fairly detailed account of the trail we needed to follow in the coming days.
Some of the important instructions were to avoid photography in the Naval area (Day 3) and on the nudist beaches (Day 4), avoid entering the Devil's Canyon (Day 5), be together in the jungle to avoid unpleasant encounters with wild animals (Days 7 and 8). This is where the unwelcome spectre of bear aggression germinated in our collective mind. This would later attract a wholesale bear vocabulary to group conversations and some impromptu bear songs (bhaalu re bhaalu teraa rang keisaa ...). In reality, the closest we would ever get to any wild animals during the trek would be during Days 5-8 when we would come across a lone instance of a snake skin (but a large one indeed), some porcupine quills, and plenty of animal droppings, some of which would be identified as bear droppings by the experienced members. There would be no quarrel on this ... our minds being wide open to any conceivable bear thing!
Later, during the camp fire, we also met various YHAI volunteers, who had come from the nooks and corners of India. Among them were experienced mountaineers, terrain reconnaissance experts, event organisers, athletes, and youth leaders. Also present was Mr R. Jadav, the Maharashtra State Chairman of YHAI, an acclaimed Everest climber himself. It was reassuring to see that we were in veteran hands.
Day 3: Base Camp to Bogmalo Beach
This was the flagging off day. There was a high-profile ceremony attended by the Honourable Mayor of Panaji, the Director of Sports (Government of Goa), several civilian dignitaries, and senior YHAI office-bearers. We were each given our packet of candies, éclairs, and glucose biscuits to keep us going on the route. Amidst great fanfare and cheering by Group 2 participants, we were finally sent off on the trail. We started with a bus ride to Dona Paula and a 45 minutes' motor boat ride from there to Marmagoa (Marmugao) harbour in the city of Vasco-da-Gama. This was the dolphin ride and we did spot a few of them making their characteristic arched bounds on the water surface.
An appointed local guide at the Marmagoa harbour showed us the way to the Baina beach (yes, the same one that made it to a Frontline story in the magazine's 17-30 July 2004 issue). We were to walk straight on the beach to reach the entrance to the Varunapuri naval base area, but we managed to lose our way and found an alternative route to Varunapuri ... talk of serendipity or unexpected discovery! Here, we entered the high-security area of the naval base. During this walk across the naval area, we witnessed the roaring spectacle of vertical landing by a giant flying machine, which was identified as a British Harrier by one of us. We kept following the road markings to reach the end of the naval area adjoining the cute little Hansa beach. From the beach, the terrain was rocky and steep. The hot sun above and the battered feet below, made the walk seem virtually endless. In the late afternoon hours, before anyone had collapsed from exhaustion, there emerged the familiar face of a base camp volunteer, Mr A. Bhowmick, ushering us into the Bogmalo camp site, tucked within a coconut groove adjoining a fishing village, a little away from the beach.
This was our first night out after the base camp. As is usual after the first day of the trek, almost everybody had a grouse to ventilate, about the distance of the trek, tough terrain, inadequate instructions, group not staying together, bad weather, painful muscles, heavy backpacks, no electricity (hence early dinner), dust, anything! Soon we found out who was carrying what medicines and pain killers ... needles, torches, and adhesives ... things we seek in distress, when our malleable selves (with their fragile entrapments) begin to give in under the dramatic rise of strain on the first day. The first-timers were not sure of what to expect next; but the experienced ones knew that this was only a first-day phenomenon, which should largely wear off in the coming days.
Day 4: Bogmalo Beach to Benaulim Beach
This was an entirely beach trail, strewn with refreshment shacks and tourist resorts. The much anticipated nudists were nowhere to be seen, although there were enough foreign tourists enjoying a sun bath, with adequate beach clothing. Some of us were collecting live mussels (with the hope of a sumptuous sea-food meal somewhere along the way!). I was collecting bright pebbles from the shore (under possible inspiration from Sir Issac Newton of Lincolnshire, England!). Soon, all the mussels, pebbles, and all such things had to be discarded, painfully, in favour of walking light!
By this time, the complaints had virtually come down to one theme: distance. Members were heard lamenting the fact that we reached the Benaulim camp rather late in the day. "If only we had reached here a bit earlier ..." was the common refrain. Besides this, the strain of the expedition was showing on some members, who were feeling slightly feverish. The spirit was down. Just then an unfortunate thing happened: three members had to discontinue the trek due to an emergency back home. This was when we were getting to know each other and beginning to bond as a group. The camp fire that night was a depressing affair. Some sad songs were sung. The group was a bit resigned to accepting its reality.
Day 5: Benaulim Beach to Dudhsagar
The next morning saw hopeful faces as we got ready for our bus ride to Madgaon station. We had a train to catch for Collem (Kulem), located in the Sanguem sub-division of south Goa, home to the famous Dudhsagar waterfall. From Collem station, we crossed a rivulet to enter a thickly wooded area of inland Goa. Our trail was marked. We avoided the Devil's Canyon (which would have required a detour) and headed towards our camp site near Dudhsagar. A part of our trail coincided with a jeepable forest road that had a thick layer of pulverised clay on it, giving rise to clouds of dust when a tourist vehicle passed.
A number of new challenges surfaced on this route. The sudden change from smooth beaches to uneven forest ground, the streams we had to cross on the route (removing our shoes every time and putting them back on wet feet), the height we were gaining on this mountainous terrain, and the frequent dust clouds were taking their toll on our spirit. When we reached the camp, only a handful of us had the breath it took to do the few extra kilometers to see the Dudhsagar falls.
The next morning, our camp leader, Dr Vijay, managed to instill some optimism in us, presenting us with a poem he wrote the night before, extolling the spirit of Youth Hostelling, reinforcing the message with the spiritual dimension of Dudhsagar, an aspect of the local faith here. Little did we know that the worst was over, as far as this whole trek was concerned.
Day 6: Dudhsagar to Kuveshi
The next day, we had to cross a whole mountain, covered with thick natural forest, to reach a river around noon, where we decided to take our lunch break, as advised by our last camp leader. The heavenly beauty of the countless rivers and streams in this area must be applauded. The ice-cold and crystalline liquid flowing in tranquility, over smooth black and yellow pebbles, has an almost transcendental appeal. For once, it did not matter even if bears and bisons would join us in partaking of this sublime gift of nature.
After a relatively early lunch, we crossed some more forest, some grassy savannah, and some agricultural fields to reach our next camp at Kuveshi village (this was in Karnataka territory). As we crossed the State boundaries, the look and feel of the forest also seemed to change, from tropical jungle to an orchard-like appearance. There were trees laden with unknown fruits and flowers. We spotted plenty of amla (gooseberry) trees and harvested some amla fruits to be shared later.
The Kuveshi camp proved to be the best, not only for its scenic location on the banks of a crystalline stream, but also for the superlative care taken by the camp leader Mr M. B. Naik. The food at this camp was miles ahead of the others. Since we reached this camp rather early (before 2 p.m.), we had the time to enjoy its beauty, take a bath in the stream, and indulge ourselves with the much needed rest in the lap of nature.
Day 7: Kuveshi to Castle Rock
The route from Kuveshi to Castle Rock involved a short trek through tropical forest for a few hours, from which we emerged into the small Karnataka town of Castle Rock. Soon we had to pass through a market area that drove the trekkers into some frenzied shopping--mostly for the eatables they had denied themselves for a few days now!
We had a local guide here, who put us on a marked trail that led us to our camp site, located at Khutyer village. There was again a stream near the camp, although at a few minutes' distance. By this time, the group had bonded well enough to enjoy the "here and now," rather than lament the strenuous past or the unknown future. The cooler climate of the forest had its own healing touch. The playful bear banter continued to serve a function, helping communication to flow, providing an easy antidote to uneasy moments of silence.
Day 8: Castle Rock to Base Camp
This last part of the trail offered the unique prize of a continuous breath-taking view of the Western Ghats mountain range. The walking was a little difficult due to the steady and sharp descent. The jungle trail soon merged with a jeepable forest road, which took us straight to the Mollem exit gate of the Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary, within which we were till now. A few of us managed to take a wrong diversion when we were just about a kilometer away from the gate. It took some heroism from our group leader (the Gentleman Cadet) to realise this in good time and reach us to show the correct path. By noon, all of us were having our lunch at the sanctuary gate and waiting for the designated bus to take us to the base camp.
The bus came around 2:30 p.m. and a drove of dusty and tired trekkers jumped in with newfound vigour; within a few seconds we were heading towards Panaji, on the National Highway 4A, joining Belgaum and Panaji.
And, what a heroic welcome back at the base camp! We were the first group to have completed the trek! The groups at the base camp, who were getting ready for their flag off in the next couple of days, were looking at us with awe and inspiration. We were assuring them that things would be just fine ... and there would be no bears to be seen in bear country!
Members began to depart with their certificates although some of us stayed back for the camp fire that night. For some reason, the dinner at the base camp was posh and wonderful that night. There might have been a generous sponsor behind it ... what mattered was that it served as a grand finale to a magnificent experience at the Goa trekking expedition.
Would I go for the Goa expedition again? Probably not, because I am allergic to dust. But, this is not to depreciate the grandeur of the Goan beaches and the mystic mountains of inland Goa contiguous with Karnataka.
The effort of putting together this event must have been humongous. The coming together of volunteers and participants in such large numbers would not have been possible without that mysterious grace that sometimes touches human efforts. At the root of it must be the magnetic spirit of understanding, tolerance, and self-expansion that gives Youth Hostelling its distinctive vibrancy. Long live the Youth Hostel movement!